KHAPLU - French climber Benjamin Vedrines summited Pakistan's K2 in record time on Sunday, his team told AFP, reaching the top of the world's second-highest mountain in just under 11 hours.
The 32-year-old specialist in high-speed ascents -- made without the aid of oxygen -- left K2 base camp just after midnight on Saturday and reached the summit 10 hours, 59 minutes and 59 seconds later.
The ascent slashes by more than half the previous record for climbing K2 without the aid of bottled oxygen, completed in 23 hours by fellow Frenchman Benoit Chamoux in 1986.
Vedrines attempted the summit in 2022 but was forced to turn back after suffering from hypoxia, a lack of oxygen in the blood caused by thin air at high altitudes.
"I took my revenge on this mountain," Vedrines said in a voice message shared with AFP. "But above all I wanted to reconcile with it by doing things with maturity."
"It was very symbolic for me because I was returning in my footsteps to where I experienced those very unique moments," he said.
"I really enjoyed seeing the same sections again, but with lucidity this time."
Standing at 8,611 metres on the Pakistan-China border, K2 is 238 metres shorter than Everest but is considered more technically challenging -- earning it the nickname "Savage Mountain".
Elite climbers regard the mountain, which was first scaled in 1954, as a quintessential achievement, and often attempt to set records on its jagged slopes.
Norwegian climber Kristin Harila and her Nepali guide Tenjin Sherpa conquered K2 a year ago, capping a record for the fastest summit of all 14 of the world's 8,000-metre mountains.
The pair completed the feat in three months and one day. Tenjin was killed in an avalanche less than three months later as he guided another climber on Mount Shishapangma in Tibet.
In January 2021, a 10-man team from Nepal became the first to summit K2 in winter as temperatures plunged to minus 65 degrees Celsius.